A Sooty Olive is the dull angling fly with splendid touches, and with one of these gourmet specialist benefactor Sean Harrigan got his greatest trout. The name superbly suits the eatery’s inside, where the absence of characteristic light in a changed over patio house is compensated for by dark red couches and seats, pale dividers and mindful lighting. It’s still a touch short on air, yet compensated for by unfailingly lively staff and a menu which is a fantastic mix of solace sustenance and impeccable arrangement. The full £16.95 menu is splendid quality, and if accessible, run for pork gut with dark pudding and apple squash or 12-hour moderate simmered sheep shanks which melts off the bone.